This project does require sewing (no glue is used in making this shade).
Below is a picture of my windows before I painted and made my roman shades.
Below is a picture of my windows after I painted and made my roman shades.
− Fabric (I used home decor fabric)
− Lining (I used ultraviolet blocking drapery lining)
− 3 wood dowel rods (Home Depot or Hobby Lobby)
− Hook and Loop tape, self adhesive (any craft store)
− Old or new mini blinds ( I used my old mini blinds)
− Lift rings (Joann, or Hobby Lobby)
− 1 metal rod (Home Depot)
These instructions are for inside mount window shade.
I measured the width and length of my window. I made sure to allow a ¼" seam allowance. My window measures 24" x 45'.
Below are my window calculations for stackage and rod placement. I got my stackage and rod placement calculations using the hardware calculator at http://www.terrelldesigns.com//.
Actual Stackage: 7
# of Folds: 6
Window calculation: 24" x 45"
My window measurements (24" x 45"):
Width = 24" + 4" = 28" (2" seam allowance on each side = 4")
Length = 45"+ 8" = 53" (3" allowance at top of shade and 5" allowance at bottom of shade = 8")
Width = 24" + 2" = 26" (1" seam allowance on each side = 2")
Length = 45" + 9" = 54" (9" for turning top and bottom, rod pockets, and ease)
FACE FABRIC AND LINING
*Remember the measurements I am using for this tutorial are my own window measurements. You can use your own window measurements and add the same seam allowances I added.
Now that my fabric has been cut to my measurements, it’s time to fold and press seam allowances.
− Fold and press 2" allowance on both sides of the shade length wise
− Fold and press 3" allowance at top of shade
− My window length is 45" from the top of folded shade fabric to the bottom, I pinned and marked the length. Once pinned and marked I folded and pressed.
− I applied loop tape (self adhesive) to the top of the shade by opening the pressed top and sides of the fabric. Place loop tape on the hem allowance above the fold line. Anchor the tape with pins across the width, then machine baste. [Lesson learned from my mistake with my first shade. I did not machine baste the self adhesive tape to my fabric and after it hung on my window for about 2 weeks the fabric unglued itself from the self adhesive tape. I had to pull down the shade, take it apart and sew the fabric onto the tape.] See picture below.
I cut my lining to the finish width of my shade, plus I added 2" for seam allowance, my window finish width is 26". The length is cut to my window finish length which is 53¼", I rounded it off to 54".
My window lining dimensions......
3 x rod pocket at 3/4" each = 2¼" rod pocket
45" - Finish length
2" - Top turning
2" - Bottom turning
2¼" - Rod pockets
2" - Ease
53¼" (rounded off to 54")
I prepared lining by pressing a 1" seam allowance on both sides (length wise of shade), making sure it measured exactly 1" seam allowance on each side. Afterwards, I turned my lining right side up and pressed 2" on bottom of shade (right side of fabric to right side of fabric).
Making Rod Pockets
For this part of my shade I watched and studied the YouTube video by http:/www.mydecozo.co.uk/.
From the bottom of lining fabric I folded and pressed 5½", then I measured from that point ½", I marked both side edges of the lining using a straight edge ruler I drew a faint pencil line from edge to edge this is the fold line of my 1st rod pocket. I folded lining wrong sides together along the faint pencil line, then pressed. If you want a sew line, measure and mark ½" above the fold. Draw faint pencil line. Take to the sewing machine and sew accurately along faint line. Measure up from the first stitch line (not the fold line) 12" and then a ½", place pin on both side edges of the lining, draw a faint line between the pins as before. Fold the lining wrong sides together and press. Mark the ½" as before. Stitch the 2nd rod pocket, I repeated the step for the 3rd rod pocket. The remaining fabric above the 3rd rod pocket is for the top of the shade and heading allowance.
To secure my fabric sides, I stitched a herringbone stitch along both side edges of fabric length wise(see Youtube video on herringbone stitch for a quick tutorial).
I pinned the lining in place getting it ready to slip stitch. It is important to keep the shade as flat as possible at this stage. Slip stitch should not go through the face fabric.
Once the lining was stitched in place it was time to place the rings. I marked the rings 4" from my fabric edge. I made sure my rings are squared with each other and the shade draws up level. I folded the shade so the rods stack up with each other. I made sure the sides were aligned and ready to secure the rings.
To secure my fabric and lining together I made a small stitch under the rod pocket seam line at each ring position. This will ensure that both fabrics will stay together as the shade is drawn up.
Now I folded the bottom and pinned the hem in place to get ready for my slip stitch, be sure to leave the ends open. Next I completed the top of shade by trimming away any excess fabric at the top of my fold line. I trimmed the fabric to leave 1" beyond the loop tape. Then I folded and pressed a ½" seam allowance, be sure to pin in place through all the fabric and slip stitch through the lining only.
Now, the lining is ready for the rods. The rods will assure that your shade folds perfectly. I measured the width of rod pockets and cut rods ¼" shorter. I inserted a rod into each pocket and stitch the ends closed. Then I stitched the rings according to my markings (4" away from the edge), which will correspond with each cord drop.
Now, that I have all my rods our in their individual rod pocket its time to insert my metal weight rod. The metal weight rod assures that your shade hangs perfectly. Cut the metal weight bar 1" shorter than the width of your shade. Slide it into the bottom pocket and stitch ends close.
I’m getting close to finishing my shade. But, first I need to dissect my mini-blind before attaching the shade to the head rail track.
DISSECTING MY MINI-BLIND
The great thing about using my old mini-blind is I did not have to purchase a mounting board, L-brackets, pulleys, anchors, screw eyes or lifting cord. Using my mini-blind saved me lots of money. Believe me I did intensive research before beginning this project.
On a flat surface I laid out my mini-blind fully extended. Carefully I cut away all of the thin tilting/ladder-like strings, being very careful not to cut the lift cord, which was located in the center of the slat (you can’t miss it). I simply ran my scissors along the top of the slats, cutting away the tilt strings and avoiding the lift cord altogether. I trimmed away the strings at the top of the blind and the bottom so that all I had left was the center lift-cord.
I took out the plastic plugs from the bottom slat of the mini-blind. Then I simply slide out all the slats.
Now, I only have the mini-blind head rail and the lift cords, similar to the picture below.
Next, I removed tilt rod and tilter (which allows the slats to open and close). Once those two items were removed I was left with the cord lock and plastic pulleys that the cord would feed through. Besides the tilter just gets in the way of making my shade look nice and neat in the front.